.jpg) | What is an invisible setting?
Invisible setting is a technique for mounting diamonds and other gem stones in a setting in such a way that the framework holding the stone in place is not visible. By using this setting, jewelers are able to design and produce innovative designs were the diamonds provide a dazzling display of light, unbroken by the holding framework and were the stones appear to be held in place by an invisible force.
The setting was originally developed in France, well over 200 years ago but because the technique is a time consuming and difficult task, it was not widely used until the 1990’s when the technology to make the process simpler became available and invisibly set pieces became more readily available. In 1933 Cartier patented a technique very similar to invisible setting and in 1936 Van Cleef & Arpels patented another technique under the name of "mystery setting”. All of the techniques and final results are very similar and today all are referred to as “invisible settings”. Even though new technology is available that makes the process easier, it still demands a great deal of time, skill and patience.
How is it done?
To achieve the desired effect, at least two rows of diamonds closely set together with no apparent metal framework keeping them in place are used. The jeweler must cut into each diamond a groove beneath the girdle of the stone and close to its base (culet) that is perfectly aligned with a rail set on the metal of the piece being worked upon. The diamonds are slid onto this rail which is invisible to the naked eye once the piece has been completed. The end result is a thing of exceptional beauty, rows of dazzling diamonds, apparently held in place by nothing at all, sparkling in reflected light and being admired by all.
It’s worth knowing
If you are considering buying a piece of invisible jewelry make sure that the jewelry’s gold weight is high, as light and less substantial pieces will not have the strength to hold the diamonds safely in place for a long time. Remember, a piece of jewelry is something you want to treasure for years to come. During its lifetime a ring will be cleaned and polished any number of times. It may fall or get knocked. A lightweight invisible setting is more likely to loosen and then you may have to deal with lost diamonds or the expense of having the piece repaired.
Taking care of your invisible jewelry
As with any valuable and beautiful object, care must be taken to preserve its beauty over the years. This may mean cleaning the piece from time to time, or even having it resized. With invisible jewelry extra care must be taken as the settings, whilst strong, can be damaged by mishandling. We strongly recommend that you take invisible jewelry only to a respected and qualified jeweler for any cleaning or resizing work needed.
Repairs
Diamonds can come loose in any setting. If you discover a loose stone, or even think that one is loose, take the piece to a qualified jeweler who will be able to repair it for you. With invisible settings, please don’t put off having it repaired, nothing is more upsetting than to discover that your beautiful ring is missing a stone and you have no idea where it is.
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